As you probably know already, bearded dragons are desert inhabitants and need high basking temperatures to stay healthy. But why is my bearded dragon not basking and avoiding a basking spot? In this post, we will discuss the possible reasons on why your bearded dragon won’t bask and give tips on how to make your dragon bask again.
What is ideal bearded dragon basking spot temperature?
Ideal basking spot temperature for a bearded dragon would be 92-110 degrees Fahrenheit (33-43 Celsius). Anything above 112-113 degrees Fahrenheit (44.4-45 Celsius) is too hot for a bearded dragon’s basking spot and will cause overheating and even a stroke.
Why is my bearded dragon not basking?
Reason #1: The temperature in the basking spot is not accurate
The temperature that your thermometer is showing might not be the most accurate temperature in the basking spot. In reality, the basking spot might be too hot.
This can cause your bearded dragon to avoid the basking spot partially or completely. Does your bearded dragon sit next to the basking spot but not directly under the lamp? This might be the reason.
The reason is, the basking light bulbs can actually create hot spots with the temperatures being much higher than you thought. For example, a thermometer that is attached on a wall won’t give you accurate readings. It can vary on how high or low the thermometer is attached and so on.
The temperature might get even higher on flooring such as tiles and on darker surfaces. A good idea is to have a handheld infrared thermometer like this on top of a general digital thermometer on a wall under the heat bulb. An infrared thermometer allows to measure the temperature in a specific spot by pointing at that spot and getting the readings.
Bearded dragons rely fully on heat sources to get warm. However, they can also get warm properly when a source of heat is 5-10 degrees F (up to 5.5 degrees Celsius) lower than needed. Each bearded dragon has its own preferred temperatures, too. So remember that having a cool spot is very important.
Another thing is that baby bearded dragons usually prefer higher basking temperatures, and this need often goes away with age. Adults often prefer slightly lower temperatures than baby dragons.
Reason #2: The basking spot is too close to the lamp
Please also consider that the heat will be rising from the surface that you measure the temperature for. So if your bearded dragon flattens for basking, it will feel less heat than a dragon that has its head up.
Your bearded dragon might then believe it’s too hot for it to bask there, and leave the spot. This is especially true if you have set up a branch or a higher platform for your bearded dragon to use for basking (which they need).
Once your bearded dragon climbs higher, it gets too hot, so it might prefer not to climb that spot to bask. This is often the case when owners complain that their bearded dragon won’t climb to bask.
The best distance from UVB light to your bearded dragon is 6-8 inches (15-20.3cm). UVB and bulb for light should be situated next to each other.
Please use a digital (analogs are not very accurate) thermometer with a probe like this. A probe is a good addition because you can put it in a specific spot to see the temperature. What is more, having an infrared handheld thermometer will greatly help get readings.
If you double check and confirm that the basking temperature is too high, for example 115-130 degrees F (46-54.4 Celsius), then please change the bulb immediately! Otherwise, you can cook your bearded dragon or burn it! High temperatures in that spot will also prevent you from reaching optimal cool spot temperatures.
You can swap the heat bulb to lower wattage one to achieve lower temperatures. For example, even 60-70 watt bulbs can heat the basking spot to 120 degrees F (48.8 C)!
Some bulbs can also get very hot, for example mercury vapor lamps, that emit both heat and UVA & UVB. They are not very suitable for tanks smaller than 35-40 gallons.
For heat, you can use ceramic heat emitting bulb, halogen flood or even house lights (might not get hot enough). Often, incandescent bulbs for reptiles do not last long and can leave you with a bearded dragon that doesn’t have any heat.
Reason #3: Your bearded dragon is hiding from UVB light
Not all UVB lights are good for your bearded dragon. There are a lot of UVB lights that are not safe and can even damage your bearded dragon’s eyes. While you should not be scared or get a UVB with less than 10%, make sure the brand is reputable and intended for reptiles.
Please do not buy full-spectrum lights that are made for growing plants or any other ones that do not actually emit UVB light. Some bulbs might be cheap and be too weak/powerful.
If the light is too powerful, it might make your bearded dragon hide a lot. You can test this by turning off the UVB light for 1-3 days to see if your dragon stops hiding.
This is especially true is the UVB light is a tube that runs the enclosure, or is right beside the basking light. One of the best UVB lights for the bearded dragon’s tank is a Reptisun 10.0 High Output tube light like this.
Please do not get coil bulbs or compacts for UVB! They are very small to distribute the light evenly across the whole surface and can damage your dragon’s eyes. The UVB tube light should cover 1/2-2/3 (50-66%) of the tank.
Reason #4: The lighting isn’t set up correctly
One the big mistakes that can injure your bearded dragon’s eyes is setting up the UVB light or even a basking light vertically instead of horizontally. Never place the tube light or bulbs vertically or sideways that it shines bright light directly in your bearded dragon’s eyes.
Instead, all the light should be mounted from overhead. Make sure to house a tube light in a hood that will fit the size of the tube. And place light/heat bulbs in domes like this. You can even use a reptile light stand like this that is adjustable and will hold the clamp lamp fixture above the terrarium.
Please also note that if you place your UVB light on top of mesh, it will cut the exposure by around 30-45%. If you are using a 10.0 UVB light, then it can be above the mesh. But don’t place it too far from your bearded dragon.
Reason #5: Your bearded dragon is starting to brumate
Brumation is a period of winter (rarely spring or other season) shutdown. A bearded dragon that is brumating will be eating little to nothing. It will be also laying and hiding a lot, and either mostly to completely inactive.
Bearded dragons often start to brumate at the age of 12-18 months, but rarely it can be as early as 6 months.
During the brumation, keep the basking light on for around 10 hours a day. But, lower the basking temperatures to 80 F (26.6 Celsius) and cool side temperatures to 70 F (21 Celsius). You can do this by reducing the bulb wattage.
Reason #6: Wrong color bulb
Bearded dragons prefer and go to bright white color bulbs for basking. If you have the red, blue or black color bulbs, your bearded dragon won’t be interested in basking.
Switch to white color bulb instead and you are likely to see the difference. Colored bulbs also disrupt the sleep cycle, so don’t use them at all, not for day or night.
Reason #7: Your bearded dragon is settling in
It is common for new bearded dragons not be basking or eating properly. Give your bearded dragon few weeks to settle in, and it will hopefully hide less and start basking regularly.
Set up lights before you bring your bearded dragon home. And make sure to have the lights on even if your bearded dragon doesn’t come out to bask that much in the beginning. Remember, bearded dragons don’t bask all day long anyways. They hide during the hottest hours of the day, instead.
Reason #8: Your bearded dragon is sick
If your bearded dragon looks sick – lethargic, listless, refusing food, not pooping properly and more, then it could be sick.
This is especially worrying if it’s caused by wrong lighting. Sometimes it happens that owners are advised to buy wrong lighting, or are following wrong advice. As we discussed previously, full-spectrum bulb (for UVB) should be for reptiles and replaced every 6 months.
Lack of UVB will cause soft bones, lack of calcium/vitamin D3 in the body, which might then lead to irreversible changes.
It is especially alarming if a bearded dragon is not eating and pooping properly, as well as not basking. This could be caused by low temperatures (indigestion), wrong lighting or diet and more.
To read more on setting up lighting in a bearded dragon’s tank, read this full guide.
Reason #9: Competition
Bearded dragons compete heavily for the best basking spot if living in groups. It doesn’t always result in fights, but bearded dragons can get stressed and discouraged to bask if they are not the strongest one in the group.
It can be solved by a big basking spot (or 2 spots if 2 dragons) so that each dragon can have space. However, usually bearded dragons that live together will ‘stack’ – lay on top of each other to get to the best spot. This can result in a dragon that is on the bottom to feel socially weaker. It also won’t get as much light as needed.