Uromastyx Lighting and Heating Requirements and Full Setup

After getting a tank, you need to setup lighting and heating for your uromastyx. Heating and lighting are two of the most important things that you need to setup correctly for your uromastyx to be healthy and happy. In this post, you will learn about uromastyx heating and lighting requirements and how to setup lighting and heating for your uromastyx.

This lighting guide suits all species of uromastyx. They all need high temperatures and a source of UVB light.

Heating and lighting requirements for uromastyx

Uromastyx require high temperatures throughout the tank, with very high temperatures in a basking spot. This is because uromastyx come from hottest, driest and harshest parts of the world. Also, they need a high output UVB source that will help produce vitamin D in the skin.

What are ideal temperatures for uromastyx?

• Ideal daytime background gradient temperatures for uromastyx are 80-100 Fahrenheit (26.6-38 Celsius).
• The hot side of the tank should reach 95-110 Fahrenheit (35-43.3 Celsius).
• Temperature right under the basking bulb on the platform should reach 131-140 Fahrenheit (55-60 Celsius).
• Ideal cool side temperatures are 80-85 Fahrenheit (26.6-29.4 Celsius).
• Night time temperatures should be much lower – allow it to drop to 70-75 F (21-24 C).

How long should I leave the lights on for in the tank?

Hours of daylight and darkness is called photoperiod, and is very important for the well-being of your uromastyx. Keep the lights on for 12-14 hours a day, with 10-12 hours of darkness. There’s no need to decrease number of daylight hours in the winter unless you are trying to encourage brumation.

If you sleep very late at night, it’s better to adjust the timing of lights similar to your schedule. However, if lights in the tank turn off and you are still in the room with lights on, cover the tank with a black cloth, table cover or similar. This way your uromastyx will be able to sleep normally.

Uromastyx lighting setup

To setup lighting and heating for your uromastyx, you will need:

• a UVB tube
• Hood to house a UVB tube
• Heat bulb (x1-2, depending on wattage and size of the tank)
• Ceramic heat emitting bulb (in case need to heat at night or to supplement main heating)
• Light fixture to house a heat bulb, optionally a light stand for tanks with air screens
• Thermometers (x2-3) and hygrometer (for humidity)
• An infrared handheld thermometer
• Thermostat to control temperatures
• Timer or a power center for automating lights and heating

UVB lighting for uromastyx

First of all, you must get a high output UVB source for your uromastyx, and this is a must. Your uromastyx will become deficient and sick without it. Ideal types of UVB are 10-12% UVB tubes that run at least 65% of the tank’s length. Few of the best UVB tubes are:

• Reptisun T5 HO (high output) 10.0 UVB tube like this
• Arcadia 10-12% (in the UK)

Please do not choose full-spectrum plant lights, or any other reptile UVB light that is under 10% UVB. Please don’t use any coiled bulbs or used UVB tubes, as they can cause eye damage. Old UVB lights stop producing UVB after 6-12 months of use.

T8 Reptisun is also a weaker UVB source, which can be used if nothing else is available, but make sure to house it in a hood with a reflector.

Mercury vapor light bulbs are also available but they don’t run the enclosure and only cover the small part of the tank. However, they emit both UVB, light and heat, and get very hot, so you might use one in a tank when you can’t accommodate a tube light.

This can be the case in smaller tanks. Only use MVP in a tank 40 gallons or more, and choose a lower wattage bulb that is 70-100 watts, like this. Experiment with lower wattage first, as these bulbs get hot. Many uromastyx don’t like MVP bulbs, and can hide more. With MVP, you also need an additional bright white light bulb in the tank. Also, make sure to only have 1 source of UVB.

All the UVB lighting and general heat & light bulbs must be positioned on the top of the tank, and never sideways or diagonally. Otherwise, this will cause serious eye damage. It is also recommended to place UVB tube behind the basking light to prevent discomfort to the eyes.

Uromastyx have high UVB requirements, and a 6.0-7.0 UV index at the basking spot is suitable for them. The only way to accurately measure UV index is using a UV meter/solarmeter like this. This would be a good investment, especially if you have more than one pet lizard.

Make sure to replace UVB tubes every 10-12 months, and bulbs – every 5-6 months. Old UVB bulbs/tubes stop producing UVB without you noticing it.

UVB tube light hood

After you get a UVB tube light, you need to think how you will attach it in your tank. You will need to house it in a hood of the correct size.

A 34″ Reptisun tube fits in a 36″ hood, and a 22″ tube – in a 24″ hood. It’s always better to choose a hood that has a reflector, as this will increase the light’s efficiency. One of the best hoods that you can use is:

• ReptiSun T5 high output hood with a reflector like this

You can also other simpler hoods that can house a UVB tube, but make sure to always choose the correct size.

After you house the UVB tube in a hood, you will need to attach it in a tank. With glass tanks, you might place it on a top of a screen, but make sure it’s within the ideal distance (will cover below).

Another good way to attach UVB hood inside the glass tank is to attach it to the top screen using zip ties. You can also adjust zip ties to lower or lift the tube higher.

How to mount a UVB hood in a wooden tank?

Most owners will pick a wooden terrarium for their uromastyx, because it retains heat better. So how to attach UVB tube inside a wooden tank? There are few ways to attach the UVB on the top of the tank’s ceiling from the inside.

The first way is to get brackets and screw them in the ceiling of the tank. Brackets will then hold the UVB tube in place. Another way is to use strongest picture hanging strips (such as Command) along the hood’s length and securing it to the top of the ceiling. Make sure to test it first by leaving it for few hours to few days. Brackets however, is the safest option.

Light and heat bulbs for uromastyx

Because you will need to reach very high temperatures in the basking spot, you need to choose a bulb that will emit enough heat and light. Uromastyx not only need a lot of heat, but also a lot of light. That’s because it stimulates activity and a healthy appetite. Types of light bulbs you can use:

• Reptile intense basking bulb like this – One 100-150 watt reptile bulb is often enough to heat and light a large adult tank. Choose a 150watt bulb for tanks more than 45 inches (115cm) long.
• General incandescent or household bulbs are also suitable. Make sure to choose bright white light (not soft white). Always choose a 5000-6500 K. daylight rating bulb.
• For night time heating or supplemental heating, use a ceramic heat emitting bulb like this. Wattage will depend on how much you need to increase the temperature.
• Don’t use an under tank heater, because uromastyx love digging and it can burn them and prevent from burrowing.

Always place a basking light in one corner of the tank. This way you will be able to create a temperature gradient – with a hot, ambient and cool sides. Attaching the light in the middle will prevent you from creating a gradient at all.

Halogen lights are being banned in some countries as they are not efficient and LED lights become more prevalent. If you choose a bulb that doesn’t get too hot but is very bright, you can supplement the heating with a 100-150w ceramic heat emitting bulb that will only emit a lot of heat.

In general, one 100watt heat bulb will be enough to heat a 40-60 gallon tank, and a 150watt to heat a tank that is bigger than 60 gallons. Wooden tank will heat up much easier than a glass one, which might need more heat. For tanks smaller than 40 gallons, choose lower wattage bulbs.

Dome fixture for a light bulb

To house your light bulb(s), you will need a dome fixture. You must choose a dome fixture or bracket that will be able to withstand very high heat – choose fixtures that can support 150-300 watt bulbs. Ceramic holders are much better than plastic, which can melt and cause damage and even fire.

If you have a wooden tank, you will need to get a bracket fixture, and screw in on the tank’s ceiling, on top of the basking spot. It is a good idea to install 2 light fixtures in a basking spot, in case you need to use another bulb for extra heat or, if another fixture breaks suddenly, or if you need to heat at night.

You can use the second fixture to have a ceramic heat emitting bulb, which doesn’t produce light, only heat. Having a second fixture could help you supply extra heat without the light during the day or night, using a ceramic heat emitter.

• For glass or other tanks with a top screen, you can use a dome fixture like this. One fixture will fit one bulb.
• For wooden or other tanks that you need to attach a bracket, you can get a bracket with a ceramic holder like this, which also comes with a guard and supports up to 300 watt bulbs. If the bracket doesn’t come with a light guard, make sure to get one separately to prevent any burns.

You can also get a light stand like this to help suspend lights above the terrarium (glass or other open top tanks). This will prevent melting of the screen and even cracking of the tank (glass).

Distance between lights and uromastyx

The distance between your uromastyx and UVB and light is crucial for it to benefit from the rays. Too close – you can cause damage, and too far- it won’t benefit from them at all. Before you attach your UVB and light bulbs, make sure to check the distance. Make sure that the tank that you are getting for an adult is minimum 19.5 inches (around 50cm) high.

The distance between the heat bulb and a basking spot will depend greatly on what the basking platform is made of (how well it heats up and retains heat) as well as bulb type and wattage. While 7-9 inches (18-23 cm) is close to what you will need, every setting needs testing and experimenting to set ideal temperatures. Make sure to experiment before you bring your uromastyx home.

Please note that wire mesh blocks out a lot of UVB, up to around 30%. If you have to put a UVB tube above the mesh, you must use 10-12% that is housed inside a hood with a reflector. Or, use a mesh that has an open side where light will go on top of.

Measuring temperatures in the tank

To measure temperatures in the tank, you will need to use both thermometers and an infrared handheld thermometer to get accurate readings in different spots.

• First of all, you will need to place 2-3 thermometers in the tank – one in a hot spot, one in the middle, and one in a cool spot. Choose digital thermometers with a probe such as this one. Analog thermometers tend to be inaccurate.
• An infrared handheld thermometer like this is very useful to tell temperatures in specific spots – such as basking spot, inside the hides etc. This will give you a clear picture of the temperatures.

Controlling temperatures in the tank with a thermostat

Controlling temperatures in a tank is one of the most important things that you need to think about. Thankfully, thermostats can help us with detecting temperatures that are too low or too high. If temperatures get too high, a thermostat turns off the device or turns on a cooling device to lower the temperatures.

There are different types of thermostats – on and off, dimming and pulse. Most keepers will benefit from an on/off or dimming thermostat. On and off thermostat will turn the heating devices on and off when temperatures get too high or low. Some better models will have a socket for a heating or cooling device.

Heating device, such as an extra bulb, will turn on when temperatures get lower than you set them. And a cooling device, such as a fan, will turn on when temperatures get too high, and will turn off when it get to the ideal temperature again. Dimming thermostats will change the amount of energy sent to the heating device to dim and control temperatures in the tank.

Few of the thermostats that you can get are:

• Inkbird thermostat like this, that has outlets for heating and cooling devices and can be programmed for a range of temperatures.
• A cheaper version thermostat like this – will turn a heating device off once it’s too hot in the tank, and will turn it back on when temperatures drop to ideal. Cannot set a range of temperatures.

Automating lights in the tank (photoperiod)

The lights in a uromastyx tank must turn on and off at the same time every day to create a schedule. Fortunately, you can automate your lights and UVB with timers. These can be mechanical or digital timers. Few of the timer types you can get are:

• Simple mechanical timers like this that will turn devices on and off.
• Digital timers like this
• Reptile power center like this – has 4 outlets for constant power, and 4 for varying times.

What humidity do uromastyx need?

Ideal humidity levels for uromastyx are 20-30%. As they come from drier areas of the wold, you must keep the tank dry too. Don’t mist the tank or your uromastyx. Species originating from Arabian Peninsula can have a slightly higher humidity range, up to 35%.

Make sure to have a hygrometer like this in the tank to measure humidity levels. Some thermometers come with a hygrometer, too.

The only time you can place some moist moss in one of the hides is when your uromastyx is shedding. If your uromastyx drinks a little bit of water, you can leave a very shallow dish with water once a week. Uromastyx get most of their water from the greens and vegetables they eat.

Thanks for reading this uromastyx heating and lighting setup post! If you would like to learn more about uromastyx care, please visit this resource page.