Every crested gecko owner wants his/her crested gecko to be happy and healthy. However, sometimes crested geckos can seem to get scared and stressed due to different reasons. In this post, you will learn about crested gecko stress signs, why crested geckos can get stressed, and how to avoid stressing a crested gecko.
Can a crested gecko die from stress?
Yes, if a crested gecko keeps experiencing severe stress for a prolonged time, it will suppress crested gecko’s appetite and immune system. This will lead to slow body wasting, illnesses and death.
Crested gecko stress signs
- Jumping suddenly and running away from you
- Hiding
- Trying to bite when you approach or try to handle
- Being aggressive – jumping at the glass
- Chirping, squeaking, growling
- Fast and heavy breathing
- Being lethargic and looking sick
- Burying itself in substrate
- ‘Firing up’
- Open mouth
- Sunken eyes, wrinkly skin – overheating and dehydration
- Tail drop
- Tail slithering/waving when handling
- Gaping when you approach (mouth wide open) – surefire stress sign
- Weight loss
- Arched back to look bigger
#1: Stress when handling a crested gecko
If your crested gecko’s tail starts waving/slithering when you are handling it, then it is stressed. It is definitely recommended that you put the crested gecko back in the tank if your crested gecko’s tail is bending and waving – or it could drop the tail.
What is more, your crested gecko might try to jump or run away from you when you are trying to handle it. But once again, don’t confuse it with normal jumpy behavior. Watch for other signs as well.
Heavy breathing is also an indicator that your crested gecko is stressed and/or scared. But don’t confuse it with sniffing – your crested gecko might be sniffing new objects or your hands. Watch the belly and listen to your crested gecko’s breathing.
On of the surefire signs that your crested gecko is stressed when you approach is a wide open mouth and gaping. Crested geckos do that to scare you, when they are stressed and scared themselves. Arched back is also a sign of stress – crested gecko do it to look bigger and to scare you off.
Also, chirping, growling or squeaking noises when handling can indicate that your crested gecko is unhappy and stressed. Many crested geckos get scared when you approach, but when you start handling, they calm down.
#2: ‘Firing up’ can indicate stress in crested geckos
Crested geckos often ‘fire up’ when they are stressed. There are also other reasons that can make your crested gecko ‘fire up’ – such as humidity and temperature changes and so on. But ‘firing up’ is one the indicators of stress.
‘Firing up’ is when a crested gecko becomes very bright colored, generally its brightest. Most owners notice their crested gecko ‘firing up’ after shipping (stress), misting and handling.
Crested gecko also ‘fire down’, by becoming dull. It is also believed that crested geckos ‘fire up’ after waking up and ‘fire down’ during the day, all for camouflaging and blending in with surroundings.
You can read more about ‘firing up’ and color changes in crested geckos in this post.
#3: Extreme stress and illness in crested geckos
Illness and stress in crested geckos can be linked to each other. If a crested gecko is sick, it can cause stress, and the other way around.
A crested gecko that is suffering from an illness might exhibit the symptoms of lethargy, constant laying, little activity, refusing to eat, soft jaw and bones, tail and back kinking and more. An illness might cause wasting of the organism, severe stress and death.
If you believe that your crested gecko is suffering from a disorder or an infection, take it to the vet and start the treatment as soon as possible. Sick crested geckos can also become more aggressive (read about aggressiveness here) and unwilling to be handled.
Stress from the environment can also cause weakening of a crested gecko’s immunity and cause an illness. There are many factors that can cause stress.
This might include wrong temperature, lighting, heating and humidity levels in the tank. What is more, it could be a cage mate that is bullying this crested gecko.
Your crested gecko’s terrarium could also be placed in the wrong spot or room – with lots of noise and passing people or pets. All of this can cause severe stress and if it’s continuing for a long time, your crested gecko will get sick, lose weight etc.
#4: Wrong cage setups can cause stress in crested geckos
If a crested gecko’s cage is too hot, it can cause heat stress and stroke. Very high temperatures in the crested gecko’s cage can also cause dehydration. Signs of dehydration include wrinkly skin, sunken eyes, loose skin and lethargy.
If there is no temperature gradient, your crested gecko will overheat, get dehydrated and can die. Dehydration signs, hiding, burrowing in substrate can all indicate that your crested gecko is too hot.
Other factors that can cause stress include wrong humidity levels and lighting. Make sure that the humidity is not always high, and let the tank dry for few hours before misting again.
Very high humidity can cause bacterial and fungal growth and infections. Low humidity will cause dehydration, poor appetite and poor sticking.
Do not setup bright lights for your crested geckos, as they don’t need it. Crested geckos are crepuscular and rest during the day. Most of the time, natural daylight might be enough for your crested gecko. High UVB lights are not necessary and will harm your crested gecko (5.0 UVB lamp is maximum that you can use).
Read more about optimal lighting and humidity in a crested gecko’s cage in this post.
#5: Crested gecko heat stress
As discussed in the point above, very high temperatures will cause heat stress and even death in crested geckos. Crested geckos are very sensitive to heat. Heat stress and heat stroke will begin after few hours of being exposed to very high temperatures. Anything over 79 F (26 Celsius) in a warm spot during the day is too hot.
Temperature right under the bulb must not be higher than 83 F (28.3 C) – and this should only be right under the heat bulb if you are using one. Ambient temperature in the tank must never be that high!
Make sure that the background temperature in the crested gecko’s tank doesn’t get higher than 75 degrees F (23.8 Celsius). There must be a temperature gradient, so your crested gecko can move to a cooler spot when it’s hot. This is one the main requirements.
The background temperature in the cool spot should be 68-70 F (20-21.1 Celsius). Absence of a cool spot will cause overheating, heat stress, stoke and death. At night, temperatures must drop to 65-69 F (18.3-20.5 C).
Extremely high temperatures of over 85 F (29.4 C) will kill your crested gecko within few hours. Signs of heat stress include dehydration, lethargy, constant laying or hiding, lack of stickiness and climbing, rapid breathing, poor appetite and coordination.
Make sure to have a thermometer and humidity gauge like this in 2 spots of the cage – warm and cool sides.
#6: Acclimating crested gecko and stress
When your crested gecko is still new, it will be stressed and be scared of you and its new surroundings. Make sure to house your crested gecko is an appropriately sized tank (not too large or too small) to let it get used to its new home.
If your crested gecko looks extremely scared, you can cover the sides of its tank until its get more comfortable. Don’t start handling straight away, allow 10-14 days for acclimation. During these two weeks, approach the tank slowly and only handle if necessary, to clean the cage.
When starting handling sessions, start with 5 minute sessions once a day and gradually increase to 10-15 minute sessions. Your crested gecko might be very scared when you try handling it, and might poop on you when handling (this is normal, so have some wipes ready). Allow your crested gecko get on your hand instead of taking or lifting it.