Ball pythons shed their skin (also called ecdysis) on a regular basis. Shedding is both beneficial but stressful for your ball python. In this post, you will learn all about ball python shedding stages, how often ball pythons shed, shedding signs, problems with stuck skin, retained eye caps, shedding in pieces, stuck skin and more.
How often do ball pythons shed?
Hatchling ball pythons shed 2 weeks after hatching, for the first time. Younger ball pythons will shed more often than adults, and ball pythons generally shed every 4-6 weeks, or around once in 10-14+ weeks in winter and when reaching adulthood (3+ years old).
How long does ball python shedding take?
Ball python shedding can take around 7-14 days on average. Around 7 days before actual skin shedding, you will start noticing changes in coloration that will end with your ball python shedding in one piece.
Ball python shedding signs
- Dull coloration
- Pink tint on a belly
- Silvery sheen on the skin
- Dull eyes, bluish coloration
- Loss of appetite
- Unwillingness to come out or be handled (even aggression at a later stage when eyes are covered)
- Lethargy
- Spending 1-3 days in a moist hide, and generally hiding all the time
- Looking for various objects to rub its skin
- Soaking in water
Ball python shedding stages
Stage 1: Skin starts becoming dull, day 1-3
Around 5-14 days before the actual shedding, you will notice how your ball python’s skin starts becoming dull. This will happen as an old keratinous layer of skin starts becoming loose, as there is a new layer developing underneath.
Becoming dull means that your ball python’s normal coloration will seem less colorful. You won’t notice a ‘ghostly’ appearance straight away, it will start more subtly.
Around this time, you will also notice your ball python developing a pink colored tint on its belly. Intensity of pink coloration varies with each ball python. In some ball pythons, it will be harder to notice.
What is more, your ball python is likely to hide more (or even constantly) during this time. It won’t be interested in eating (no need to feed) and might even be defensive.
Stage 2: Skin gets duller, wrinkles, cloudy eyes, day 3-6
The next stage would be your ball python getting duller in color. You will also notice more pink tinting/coloration on the belly at this point. Also, you will notice skin wrinkles around the body.
After 3-4 days, you will start seeing bluish or gray eye coloration and cloudy eyes. Please do not feed or handle your ball python at this time (and until it has shed fully).
Cloudy eyes will cause extra defensiveness from your ball python. That’s also one of the reasons ball pythons won’t eat at this time – shedding skin prevents them from feeling and seeing prey properly.
Stage 3: Getting normal coloration and shedding, day 7-10
After around 5-6 days, your ball python will shed its skin. This can take longer, and be 7 to 10, and even 10-12 days for some ball pythons. The main fact is, most ball pythons will stay in their hide during the whole process. It’s highly recommended that you don’t bother your ball python.
However, one to two days before the actual shed, your ball python’s coloration will start returning to normal. Grey/blue eye coloration will also go away.
However, if you need to adjust humidity levels or add something to the cage, please do this. Low humidity levels might prevent your ball python from shedding properly. Ideal humidity levels range between 55-70%, and even up to 80% during shedding. Include a moist hide with some moist moss or similar.
When finally shedding, your ball python will rub its skin against various objects in a cage. Its skin will then start peeling off, and your ball python will move around the cage to get it off.
Shedding in one big piece is ideal, and any flaking or shedding in pieces is sign of low humidity levels, dehydration and even skin infections.
Read more on humidity issues and how to correct them here (new tab).
Ball python shedding problems
Ball python retained shed signs
- Flaking and dry skin, which has not shed in one piece
- Clogged nostrils
- Film/spectacle on eye(s) or opaque eye(s) (retained eye caps)
- Skin that is peeled, but not coming off
- Crusty and dull appearance
- Retained shed on tip of tail, eyes, around head (make sure to remove old skin, to avoid restricted blood flow to these parts)
After your ball python has shed, make sure to check it for any retained shed. If you notice any retained shed, review your humidity levels to allow your ball python to shed. Add moss to a moist hide, soak your ball python or let it crawl through a wet towel.
For retained eye caps, you can use reptile eye drops/rinse like this to help hydrate them. Make sure to check spurs, tail tip, around head and eyes for retained shed.
Make sure to keep your ball python’s cage humidity at around 55-70%, and even up to 80% when it’s shedding. As long as the cage is not wet, these high humidity levels will not affect your ball python.
Providing a shedding box with some moist sphagnum moss is ideal during shedding. Also, make sure to include enough accessories in the cage that will help your ball python rub its skin off.
Ball python won’t shed eye caps
Many owners get an issue when their ball pythons get bad eye shed, developing retained shed on eye caps. A retained eye cap will look like a creased spectacle (or film) covering one or both ball python’s eyes.
Retained eye cap might be due to low humidity levels in the cage and lack of hydration. It can also be caused due to scale damage around the eye and mites/ticks. To remove a retained eye cap, soak your ball python in warm water (around 85 F/29.4 C). You can also use reptile shedding aid like this.
You can also use a large water dish and leave it in a cage, so that your ball python can soak for few hours. Some ball pythons even spend few days in a moist hide when shedding.
Also, you can use a wet cotton bud to try to remove stuck skin on the eye. Always try to look for the edge of the stuck skin, which is often around the eye. Use your clean finger or a q-tip to gently rub the eye.
You can also use reptile eye drops/rinse like this to moisturize eyes and help the skin come off. Please see a vet if you are unsure about this.
Ball python shedding too often?
Ball pythons don’t shed too often, especially after reaching adulthood. However, a ball python can be shedding too often due to some reasons.
Reasons why a ball python is shedding too often include rapid weight gain or skin infection/injury. In case of rapid weight gain, your ball python will grow and will need to shed its skin, same as with any skin infection, to promote faster healing.
Sometimes your ball python might be shedding again because of stress (external or internal). If you notice any other warning signs, take your ball python to a vet. Also, make sure you are not overfeeding your ball python, especially if it’s older.
You can find a ball python feeding chart and schedule here.
Ball python shedding in pieces
If your ball python is shedding in pieces, that means that humidity in the cage is too low or that it’s dehydrated. Make sure to increase humidity to 60-80%. Other causes could be internal or external infections and even nutrient deficiency.
Adding a shedding box with moist sphagnum moss will help. You can even soak your ball python in warm water (85F/29.4C). Also, you can use reptile shedding aid like this, that will help moisturize the skin and make it pliable.
If you would like more tips on increase cage humidity, see this post.
Ball python not shedding at all
If your ball python is not shedding at all, it could be due to few reasons. If your ball python is 3 years old or over, it might shed only few times a year. But younger ball pythons shed more often when growing.
Your ball python might not be shedding because you are underfeeding it. If your ball python is not gaining weight, it won’t grow or shed. Please review your ball python’s diet – you can find a feeding chart here.
Make sure to also review your husbandry – temperatures, humidity levels etc. Generally, there are no set timescales on how often ball pythons need to shed. If your husbandry and feeding schedules are fine, your ball python will shed when it’s ready.
You can read more on maintaining humidity and correcting humidity issues in this post.