Ball pythons are truly notorious for not eating and rejecting food for long periods of time. Sometimes, a ball python might stop eating for no reason at all, but there can be other causes as well. In this post, you will find 12 reasons why a ball python is not eating, as well as 7 solutions, methods and tips to make your bally python eat again.
Few of the main reasons why a ball python is not eating include stress, too much handling, low or very high tank temperatures, illness, being used to eating another prey item. But sometimes, a ball python might be not eating for no reason at all.
Ball pythons can go for long periods of time without eating. In general, a ball python can stop eating for few weeks without any ill effects, but it can be as long as 3-4 months. But it can be even up to 1-1.5 years before it’s starting to eat again. You should start taking action if it’s been more than 2-3 months.
New hatchling ball pythons often start eating around 2 weeks after hatching. At this time, they go through their first shed as well. If your ball python hasn’t eaten for 2-3 weeks, it might be normal. However, you need to start taking more serious action if it’s been more than 2-3 months.
Why is a ball python not eating?
Reason #1: Too much handling
If you handle your ball python too much, it might stress it out. Stressed ball pythons are likely to stop eating. And if you don’t stop handling too much, it might not eat for very long periods of time. If a ball python is new or small, it might even not make it.
If you have just got your ball python, make sure not to handle it for few weeks, during which it should eat few times. In general, if you feed it once a week, allow 4-5 feedings before you start occasionally handling your new ball python.
Apart from necessary handling (for cleaning/inspection/weighing etc.), you must not handle your ball python. A big sign that you ball python is stressed is when it’s coiling and curling into a ball, as well as hiding its head. Ball pythons are generally shy and handling is quite stressful for them.
Even if it’s moving very fast, it would be trying to escape. A relaxed ball python will not curl up, try to escape or rise up in an attempt to strike.
If your new ball python is docile, allow at least 3-4 feedings before you start handling it. Otherwise, wait for 4-5 feeding to start handling once a week. After few months, you can start handling more once it is eating regularly.
Reason #2: Your ball python is a wild-caught
If your ball python is a wild-caught, it might not eat properly for some time. Some might even need to be force fed, if they are not eating for too long and have reached a critically low weight. Always take your new wild-caught ball python to a vet for a check-up and place it in quarantine (for 1-2 months).
Wild-caught ball python are much more likely than captive ball pythons to refuse eating. If you have just got your wild-caught ball python (not recommended for any beginner owners), you must let it acclimatize.
Handling your new wild-caught ball python will make it very stressed. What is more, wild-caught ball pythons are more used to experiencing natural seasons, temperatures and photoperiod.
If you have got your ball python in winter, it is likely to not eat during that time. Most wild-caught ball pythons that are shipped during cooler periods between late October to end March will not be eating normally. Most will start eating again in early to late May.
It’s always recommended that beginner owners do not get wild-caught imported ball pythons (especially adults). Most imported hatchlings and babies are fine with getting used to eating mice and rats, but adults might refuse. If possible, ask to see your new future ball python eat 2-3 times before you get it.
Reason #3: Offering cold or wet prey items
If feeding a frozen thawed mouse or rat, it is likely to be wet after defrosting. However, some ball pythons tend to reject wet or cold mice or rats that have been defrosted.
A good trick to help your ball python eat is to warm up a defrosted food item under a lamp or similar for 5-15 minutes before feeding. Ball pythons have heat sensing pits on their snout, and offering a warm & dry mouse/rat will definitely elicit a feeding interest. You should wiggle it too.
It’s always the best idea to defrost prey items in a fridge overnight. Then, you can heat a prey item by putting it in a BPA-free bag (such as Ziploc) and submerging into hot water.
You can also put it on a plate and heat above boiling water. Heat a prey item to 100-105 F (37.7-40.5 C).
Read more about ball python diet and feeding charts & tips here.
Reason #4: Very low tank temperatures or too much light
If your ball python’s tank temperatures are too low, it will develop digestive and other health issues. It also won’t have a healthy appetite, so refusing food is one of the consequences.
To make sure your ball python’s tank temperatures are optimal and ideal, you must use various tools to monitor them. To monitor temperatures, make sure you have 2-3 digital thermometers like this on each side (cool, middle, warm).
Also, you can use a handheld infrared thermometer like this which will help measure temperatures in any spot of the cage. You can also use it to measure prey items’ temperature.
The temperatures in a cage must be pretty much the same throughout the day, with no to minimal drops at night. If temperatures are low, you can add another source of heat or increase wattage of a bulb (if using one).
Ideal temperatures for a ball python are 80-85 F (26.7-29.4 Celsius) for ambient temperatures, 87-94 F (30.5-34.4 C) for basking, and 76-82 F (24.4-27.7 C) for a cooler side. At night, temperatures should stay similar, at around 80-83 F (26.7-28.3 Celsius).
Please remember, that any sudden changes in temperatures are also extremely bad for your ball python. It can even lead to loss of appetite.
What is more, avoid using bright light inside the tank, it will stress your ball python. Light coming from your room is often sufficient. If using a bulb, connect to a dimmer, or use an outside light source such as lamp.
But if you have a lamp inside the tank, make sure to connect it to a timer, so it can turn on and off when needed to create a photoperiod. Make sure the tank is not in a bright spot, and use a ceramic heat emitter at night if necessary (no light emitted).
You can read more about ideal temperatures and lighting in this post.
Reason #5: Your ball python feels vulnerable or stressed
There is a lot of debate on how big a ball python’s tank should be. In general, most owners agree that an adult ball python’s tank can be very large, only provided there are enough hides.
48″ x 24″ x 24″ is a great sized tank for an adult ball python that is over 3 years old. But 45-50 gallons is a bare minimum. However, no matter what size tank your ball python is housed in, you need to include many hides and foliage/accessories.
Ideally, you should include 2-3 hides in the tank such as a cave like this, or similar. You can include more if a tank is very large. Also, include low branches or foliage (can be fake) in the cage. This will help your ball python feel more secure. Don’t get half-logs or similar – hides must be dark and tight
What is also very important, is that hides must not be too big. Your ball python should be able to curl up inside of it, it should be very fitting. It should also only have one entrance, so your ball python feels secure inside.
Also, make sure not to change your ball python’s tank layout too often, as this can cause stress. There’s also no need to feed your ball python outside of its cage, as it can cause unnecessary stress and regurgitation. If you keep your ball python in a glass tank, cover the sides and keep it in a low-traffic room.
You can read more about ideal tank sizes for ball pythons in this post.
Reason #6: Internal parasites or another sickness
If your ball python is suffering from internal parasites or another sickness, it’s not likely to eat regularly. Unfortunately, many wild-caught ball pythons suffer from internal parasites, ticks, dehydration and more, and need treatment after you get them.
Other internal disorders that cause discomfort or pain will make your ball python go off feed. If your ball python has been with you for some time and suddenly goes off feed, please look out for other symptoms.
Pain due to a trauma (broken bones, jaw etc.), difficulty breathing with a respiratory distress, liver, kidney failure, gastroenteritis (inflammation of an intestinal flora) will also lead to no appetite.
It’s always crucial to rule out any possible health conditions and treat them if present, before force-feeding or similar. Untreated conditions can also lead to an animal’s death.
It’s also important to keep new reptile pets separate from others (if you have any other reptiles), in quarantine for 1-2 months. During this time, you need to take it to the vet to treat any infections that could be present. All new ball pythons must be taken to a vet for an examination.
If your ball python is captive bred or not new, it could develop health issues too. There is a big list of possible issues, including respiratory or scale infection, retained shed and more. Please take your ball python to a vet if you suspect any health issues.
Reason #7: Your ball python is used to eating one type of prey item
If you are trying to feed your ball python one type of a prey item and it’s used to eating another, it might refuse it. Some ball pythons, especially wild-caught ones, have a hard time switching from one prey item to another. It is also involves eating live vs. frozen/thawed food.
Your ball python could be refusing to eat because it is used to eating another type of prey item. If it’s the case, ask your seller about what they fed your ball python. You will need to switch gradually.
That’s possible if you just got your ball python and don’t know what it has been fed. Wild-caught ball pythons have the chance to eat other prey items, such as gerbils, and get used to that. Some ball pythons even have rodent eye & fur color preference.
It is possible to switch from one food to another, but patience is key. If you are having issues switching from one prey item to another, please see this post for tips on switching.
Reason #8: Breeding season
During breeding season, sexually mature ball pythons might start going off feed. This is normal, and can last anywhere between late fall to mid-spring. Male ball pythons reach maturity by the age of 18 months, while females – around 3 years of age.
Breeding in the wild starts after the cooler season, when temperatures start dropping lower at night. During this time, ball pythons don’t eat either. Gravid females won’t eat, and can fast even after laying eggs. After laying eggs, she might not eat for few months.
Reason #9: Offering food even if it’s not eating
Many ball python owners keep offering feeder items to their ball pythons even if it’s not eating. Unfortunately, doing this can make your ball python not eat for even longer.
If your ball python is not eating after few times, give it a week before offering food again. And if it’s refusing again, allow 2-3 weeks and try to feed again.
Reason #10: Offering food that’s too large or small
If you are offering your ball python rodents that are too large or small, it might refuse eating them. Make sure to stick to a feeding chart when determining the size of the feeder rodent.
If a rodent is too small, your ball python might not consider eating it. But even if it eats it, it might refuse to eat more. That’s why it’s always better to feed 1 larger prey items per feeding, rather than 2-3 smaller ones.
With prey items that are too large, your ball python might be uncomfortable eating it. It can also lead to regurgitation, which can then lead to your ball python refusing to eat for longer periods of time. Make sure that the widest girth of your ball python is equal or less to girth of a rat/mouse.
If you have just got your ball python recently, you can ask your breeder/seller for advice on feeding first rodents and their sizes. Then, slowly move to larger sizes as your ball python grows. Weighing your ball python and feeder mice/rats is the best thing to do.
You can find a full feeding chart and prey item sizes here (new tab).
Reason #11: Shedding
When ball pythons are shedding, they become shy, defensive and skip meals. If your ball python has not eaten for 2-3 weeks, it is normal. Please allow your ball python to shed, and hopefully it will start eating again after that.
Whole shedding process in ball pythons takes around 10-14 days. During this shedding time, you will notice your ball python skin get duller in color. It will even develop a pinkish tint on the belly. Eyes will become cloudy.
Your ball python is likely to hide all the time. Make sure to only refresh water during this process and avoid handling, or your ball python might strike at you.
Reason #12: Rodent color
Sometimes it can happen that a ball python starts refusing a rodent of certain color of fur/eyes. This could be due to preferences. If you have been offering white colored rodent, you can try switching to another color mice/rats to see if your ball python is eating.
Tricks on making your picky ball python eat
- Try offering another type of food prey item – mice, rats, gerbils, hamsters are suitable. However, make sure that you will able to get the same type of food item in the future, as your ball python might get used to eating it.
- Wiggle food
- Warm it up under a lamp or in warm water
- If nothing is working, you can try pre-killed or live prey
- Make sure your ball python is healthy
- Offer low and tight hides with 1 entrance only (so it can fully enter and its back touch the hide)
- Make sure temperatures are ideal
- If it’s not eating – skip meals for 2-3 weeks before feeding again
- Feed at night
How to make your baby ball python eat?
Most new ball python owners face an issue when their baby ball python is refusing to eat. Making a hatchling or baby ball python (up 200-300 grams) eat is especially crucial, as they cannot go too long without eating (as opposed to adults).
Most ball pythons in new homes don’t eat due to husbandry issues. Make sure cage is big enough, cluttered, has lots of tight hides and that temperatures are ideal. But if a setup is optimal and your ball python has not eaten for a month, you need to act as soon as possible.
If your baby ball python under 300 grams is not eating, move it to a smaller plastic tub cage (around 10 gallons), only temporarily. Don’t handle it until it has eaten 4-5 times.
Add substrate to allow some burrowing, and include a low, tight hide or two. Don’t forget a water bowl. Start offering same food item as their breeder/previous owner did. If you are unsure what it was normally eating, start with mice of appropriate size.
How to make a ball python eat? Methods
Tip 1: Warm a rodent to a 100-110 F (37.7 – 43.3 C) under a lamp or placed in a bag and then submerged in hot water. You can also heat on a plate above boiling water.
Tip 2: Make sure your setup is ideal – review temperatures, hides, humidity and more. Mistakes in husbandry are the most common reason why ball pythons are not eating. It must also feel safe in the cage – make sure it’s cluttered enough. Avoid handling.
Tip 3: If your ball python is not eating, try feeding a pre-killed rodent. That would mean that a rodent was killed recently and will be still warm and have a fresh smell. You can request pre-killed mice/rats in your reptile shop/from a breeder.
Tip 4: Try different methods of presenting food. One of the ways to present a rodent is to scent a ‘trail’ in the cage, and leave it where your ball python will come and eat it. You can also try wiggling it on tongs/hemostats (the best method). Also, you can try leaving a rodent in a hide or even on a branch/foliage (to allow your ball python to ‘hunt’).
Tip 5: If it’s not eating, you can try to move your ball python to a temporary smaller enclosure, which will have some bedding, a hide and a water bowl. Place a rodent in the cage (pre-killed or f/t) and leave it there overnight. Ball pythons are shy, and leaving it alone with a rodent in a smaller enclosure might encourage it to eat.
Tip 6: Try feeding different rodents – try mice and rats (even gerbils and chicks, but be careful as they can be addictive). You can also try different color rats/mice. While this is far from ideal, you can try this method if your ball python is not taking its usual prey item.
Ask your ball python seller what it has been fed previously. However, if it was fed mice, you can definitely start switching to rats.
If you have been trying to make your ball python eat and fed it something that you don’t want to offer any longer, start switching. ‘Scenting’ (rubbing) a new prey item with the usual rodent and its bedding will entice your ball python to eat.
Tip 7: Force feeding or tube feeding (liquefied diet). Please note that force feeding is serious, and you must only attempt it when your ball python has lost a lot of weight and is seriously emaciated.
It is very stressful for your ball python and might make it refuse food for even longer, especially if you do it when not necessary. If there’s loss of 10-15% of body weight, you should be visiting a vet. Please seek professional help to get advice and help.
Thank you for reading this post on ball pythons not eating and tips on feeding. You can find more useful information on ball python diet and tips on feeding in this post.